Braving the Bacon Maple Donut


(Photo by Tim Pratt)

When Dynamo Donuts and Coffee (2760 24th St. at York) opened a few months ago, the buzz about its bacon maple donut (at that point, the bacon maple apple donut) was loud. A big obstacle kept me from checking them out: I heard that, since they are made in limited quantities, they tend to disappear in the early morning hours. Adding to the complication is that they're only served on Fridays and Sundays. But when I saw them among other Dynamo selections on a platter at Four Barrel Coffee (375 Valencia at 14th St.) yesterday, our fate was sealed at last.

I'm pro-bacon exploration in random contexts, from local Lollyphile's maple bacon lollipops to Vosges bacon and chocolate bar. But this was a disappointing combo for me; the cake of the donut was nice and light and the bacon tasted like it was of good quality, but the maple glaze was cloying, even for someone with an unusually high tolerance for sweetness. Ultimately the dealbreaker here, a lighter frosting would make all the difference. Better yet, it might actually work better were the donut itself maple flavored.

This won't deter me from trying other Dynamo flavors in time--the fleur de sel caramel, lemon thyme, spiced chocolate and vanilla chai versions still sound particularly intriguing--but it's also good to know that I don't necessarily have to hit Dynamo before I'd normally think of waking up just to have a shot at it. --Tamara Palmer

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