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If you can secure passage across the Golden Gate, do your soul a favor (though not necessarily your arteries) and get out to Poggio's Trattoria (777 Bridgeway) in Sausalito for the first annual Allo Spiedo Festa. Through Saturday, May 3, Chef Peter McNee will be rolling out the spit and the carrello -- a heated tableside cart -- where all manner of unfortunate but delicious four-legged friends will be roasted up over an oak fire for your carnivorous pleasure. The spectacle includes coniglio (rabbit), maialina (baby pig), capretto (goat), pernice (partridge), faraona (guinea hen), and fagiano (pheasant). The meats will be served alongside contorni of polenta and Tuscan-style fagioli all'uccelletto (white beans with tomato, olive oil and sage), which is cooked underneath the roasting meats to catch all the hot, dripping goodness -- and that's your Italian lesson for the day. $19 per person. Make reservations by calling 332-7771 or visit www.poggiotrattoria.com

-- Brian Bernbaum